Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB) in 4 Days
- Arthur Ehlinger
- Jul 15
- 6 min read
Updated: Jul 16
A four-day fast-packing adventure around the Tour du Mont Blanc, covering 170km through France, Italy, and Switzerland as part of a UTMB recce. GPX files available at the end of the post.
Day 1: Chamonix to Refuge de la Croix du Bonhomme
46km / 2730m vertical gain / 8h36min
After months of preparation and anticipation, it finally began: our four-day Tour du Mont Blanc, running and fast-packing through the Alps. Beth and I set off from Chamonix at 8am, packs loaded, legs fresh, and heads full of both excitement and nerves. We tried not to think too far ahead. One day at a time.
The first few kilometres eased us in with flat, flowing trails along the valley floor out of Chamonix. We found our rhythm quickly, enjoying the quiet of the morning before the first real climb of the day kicked in after Les Houches: the Col de Voza. It’s a steady ascent through forest and ski pistes, with views that gradually open up as you climb.
After cresting the col, we cruised down into Saint-Gervais, keeping a relaxed pace. We crossed paths with two other runners who were doing the TMB in just three days. There is always someone crazier than you out on the trails! It was already getting warm, so we took the chance to top up our water before continuing the gentle climb toward Les Contamines. That stretch is long but mostly runnable, winding through alpine villages and meadows. We made a very necessary stop at a bakery in Les Contamines – blueberry tart and more water, fuel for the big climb ahead.
At Notre-Dame de la Gorge, the scenery shifts dramatically. The quaint village paths give way to rocky alpine terrain and steep gradients. This is where the real mountain begins. We followed the Roman road as it zigzagged upwards, past the Refuge de la Balme and onto the first major col of the TMB: the Col du Bonhomme.
The climb is long, exposed, and properly spectacular with snow patches still lingering, and the wind picking up as we approached the top. From the col, it’s just another kilometre or so to the Refuge de la Croix du Bonhomme, perched high above the valley. We arrived late afternoon, legs tired but spirits high, both of us buzzing from that unique post-effort calm you only get in the mountains.
Staying at the refuge was an experience in itself. No phone signal meant actual conversations with strangers (wild, I know). After a quick shower, we sat down to a hearty dinner: croziflette, a local dish from the Savoie region that’s basically alpine comfort food at its best. Full and happy, we crawled into our bunks for a decent night’s sleep.
Day one: done. Three more to go.
Day 2: Refuge de la Croix du Bonhomme to Courmayeur
37km / 1880m vertical gain / 8h23min
This was meant to be an easy day. Turns out there are no easy days on the TMB.
We started with a good breakfast at the refuge: fresh bread, hot drinks and the usual mountain buzz of people getting ready for a big day out. After packing up, we set off on a gentle descent with sweeping views over the valley below. A calm and scenic start, just what we needed.
After a steady stretch along the road (a rare moment for the TMB), we reached the base of the climb up to Col de la Seigne. This marks the crossing into Italy and the views here are properly stunning. It’s a beautiful steady ascent, and hitting the border always brings a little sense of milestone.
But instead of descending directly to the valley, we took a left turn for an optional detour: the climb up to Col des Pyramides Calcaires. This is a section of the UTMB race route, and I wanted to check it out ahead of this summer’s challenge. It turned out to be… let’s say character-building. There was still a lot of snow covering the trail, and crossing those patches was tedious and slow-going but the views were absolutely worth the effort.
We finally dropped down to Refuge Elisabetta for a well-earned break and probably the best panini of the entire trip. From there, we passed through Lac Combal and began the climb up to Arête du Mont Favre, the last climb of the day.
What followed was one of the most enjoyable descents of the trip: smooth, flowing trails winding all the way down toward Courmayeur. We stopped a few kilometres out of town for ice cream, because we could, and soaked in chill vibes with no rush to get down. But Courmayeur makes you earn it. The final stretch into town is steep, relentless, and a proper quad-burner. We made it down just fine, but definitely felt it.
We’d booked a hotel for the night, and while purists might raise an eyebrow at the idea of sleeping in a hotel mid-TMB, I’ll stand by it. Fast-packing means long, demanding days back to back, and having a clean, comgy bed, your own shower, and a bit of quiet can make all the difference. Compared to the refuge, it felt like pure luxury.
Dinner? Pizza, obviously. Then straight to bed, because Day 3 was shaping up to be another big one.
Day 3: Courmayeur to Champex-Lac
49km / 2552m vertical gain / 9h12min
After a reviving night in Courmayeur and breakfast eaten in the bedroom, we laced up again for the longest day of the trip: 49km across the border into Switzerland.
The day doesn’t ease you in. It starts with a solid 800m climb straight out of town up to Refuge Bertone. No warm-up, just straight to business. But once you're up there, the trail levels out into a spectacular balcony path, hugging the side of the mountain for around 12km. The views are absurd: jagged peaks, snowy ridges, and glaciers that feel right there.
We descended briefly to Arnouvaz before the next challenge: the long climb up to Grand Col Ferret, the third and final international border of the TMB. It’s a proper alpine col, exposed and windswept, and we didn’t linger too long at the top as there was still a lot of trail left to cover today.
From there, a smooth descent into La Fouly marked our arrival in Switzerland. Everything suddenly felt like it belonged on the front of a chocolate box: the trails were pristine, the villages quiet and perfectly kept, the roads looked freshly painted.
The descent continued gently through the valley to Praz de Fort, where we geared up mentally for the final climb of the day. It’s not long, but after nearly 40km on foot, every incline feels exaggerated. We reached Champex-Lac, a peaceful Swiss little town nestled by a lake. First stop: the local shop, where we grabbed some saucisson and snacks we absolutely demolished later at the refuge. The place was small and homely. Our host cooked up another excellent dinner, and we spent the evening sharing stories with fellow hikers.
Three days down, just one more to go.
Day 4: Champex-Lac to Chamonix
43km / 2530m vertical gain / 9h07min
Final day. One last breakfast at the refuge: fresh baguette, hot coffee, the usual hiker hustle. We left at 8am, legs feeling the mileage but spirits high. Chamonix was within reach.
The first stretch out of Champex is gentle and runnable, perfect for waking up the body and easing into the day. The trail climbs steadily up to La Giète, offering quiet views and peaceful single track. From there, we dropped into the forested valley of Trient, enjoying the shade and a bit of cool air before the next push.
Then came the 700m climb up to Les Tseppes. It’s a proper effort, but the surroundings are beautiful and it all felt very manageable after the previous days. We stopped at the top there to enjoy our packed-breakfast freshly prepared by our host in the morning. The descent into Vallorcine brought with it a sense of homecoming as we were officially back in France. One more country crossed off.
From Vallorcine, there’s a long gradual climb that transitions into steeper switchbacks up to Col des Montets and then onto the ascent to Béchar. The trail becomes more rugged here, and you can feel La Flégère getting closer, the last climb of the entire TMB. The sun was hitting hard so we made sure water supplies were sufficient and sunscreen was applied every few hours.
La Flégère is iconic, especially for anyone with UTMB on their mind. Reaching it felt exciting as I could picture myself here again during the race this summer. The final descent into Chamonix is a mix of forest trail and rolling switchbacks. It's a fun one because even on tired legs, you're so close to the end that you just can't help but be happy.
And then, just like that: Chamonix. Four countries. Four days. Job done.
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Kit List:
Download gpx files below. Please note that this is the UTMB route not the classic TMB route. Make sure you always follow local regulations and signage as some sections might be impracticable.
